Category Archives: Eating & Drinking

Big Stuff Smoked BBQ at Markthalle IX Berlin

The logo of Big Stuff Smoked BBQ in Markthalle IX Berlin

Big Stuff Smoked BBQ in the Markthalle IX in Kreuzberg should be a Mecca for Berlin meat lovers.  The sandwiches are mouth-wateringly spectacular – so tasty in fact, that looking at the pictures while I type this is almost too much to bear.

The star of the show at Big Stuff Smoked BBQ is undoubtedly the meat, which has been slow cooked to the point where it is melt-in-the-mouth tender, juicy and succulent but the sauces and accompaniments play a commendable supporting role.  The buns are organic, handmade in Berlin and based on a traditional Scottish recipe.

Pulled Pork Sandwich at Big Stuff Smoked BBQ in Markthalle IX Berlin

On my first visit I went for the Pulled Pork sandwich for €5.50, which came with BBQ sauce, slices of apple and salad leaves.

I would always recommend taking the staff’s advice on what to have in your sandwich.

Beef Brisket Sandwich at Big Stuff Smoked BBQ in Markthalle IX Berlin

Last time, I went for the Beef Brisket sandwich, which costs €6 and came with a spicy BBQ sauce, Sauerkraut and pickles.

Feeling particularly hungry I opted to go back for seconds and this time chose the Pork Belly sandwich, the most expensive of the three at €7, accompanied by pickles and BBQ sauce.

Pork Belly Sandwich at Big Stuff Smoked BBQ in Markthalle IX Berlin

It turned out my eyes were bigger than my belly – don’t be fooled by the size of the buns, as you can see they are overflowing with meat – despite my big appetite I had to call on Steffi to help me out.

There is also a Meat Platter on the menu but I haven’t tried that yet.  There’s always next time.

If you are eating at Big Stuff Smoked BBQ I would recommend washing down your sandwich with a beer from Heiden Peters.  I’ve been very impressed with the Pale Ale and the Weizen that I have had there in the last couple of weeks.

There is a warning on the Big Stuff Smoked BBQ Facebook page:

Please note: our food takes endless hours to cook, so when it’s over it’s over.  Come hungry and come early.

Big Stuff Smoked BBQ is only open from Thursday to Saturday and always seems busy – I guess those in the know are determined to get their fix.  I have been the last two weeks during the new weekly Berlin event, Street Food Thursday at Markthalle IX – and the queue has snaked around the corner of the booth – always a sign of good quality.

Photos From My Phone – March

March in Berlin started with signs that spring might be on the way (though it turns out that winter wasn’t ready to hand over the baton) and I enjoyed a beer in the sun by the Spree.

San Miguel by the Spree - Berlin

White Trash Fast Food provided a couple of entertaining evenings.  First, Blog ‘n’ Burger a gathering of Berlin burger lovers expertly organised by Chris Lietze.

Chilli Cheeburger at White Trash Fast Food in Berlin

Then, later in the month Rock ‘n’ Roll Bingo.  I was even on stage for a tie-break for the final prize of €40 but couldn’t indentify Eminem quickly enough to bag the swag.

Rock n Roll Bingo Card at White Trash Fast Food in Berlin

I probably had the most surreal experience of my life this month when David Hasselhoff tweeted a link to my Ohrwurm: Looking For Freedom post, urging followers to sign the Save The East Side Gallery petition.  The Hoff even came to Berlin to show his support.  This KITT like car was at the East Side Gallery on the day.

KITT at East Side Gallery Berlin

If this is all news to you have a look at this great video from Luci of In a Berlin Minute, including the Hoff singing Looking For Freedom.

I saw lots of great Street Art, including these pieces by .FRA and Mein Lieber Prost – I just have to find time to post about it all.

Blue Slimer - Street Art by .FRA in Berlin

Bin Stolz Auf Dich - Street Art by Mein Lieber Prost in Berlin

I managed to snap a quick photo of this girl in Bowie face paint at the Tram stop at Eberswalder Strasse.  For more about Bowie’s association with Berlin have a look at Famous Berliners: David Bowie.

A girl with Bowie face paint at a tram stop in Berlin

My March round-up ends as it started with booze.  This time The Wild East cocktail from Stagger Lee (a great Berlin cocktail bar) – sehr lecker!

The Wild East cocktail at Stagger Lee in Berlin

You can follow my Berlin adventures on Instagram.

Five Elephant – Sublimely Good New York Cheesecake in Berlin

The sign at Five Elephant Berlin

When Steffi and Bine told me that they had driven from Charlottenburg to Prenzlauer Berg just to get the New York Cheesecake at The Bird it got me wondering where you get the best New York Cheesecake in Berlin.  I started to draw up a list and the first place to go on it was Five Elephant.

On Reichenberger Strasse in Kreuzberg, in their own words:

Five Elephant is a specialty coffee micro roastery, bakery and cafe in Berlin, Germany. Passionate about quality, our goal is to source the best coffees in the world in a way that is both socially and environmentally responsible.

You can read more about Five Elephant’s approach to sourcing and brewing their coffee on their website and Facebook page.

All this is lost on me because I’m not a coffee drinker so it’s lucky that Steffi had come along, tempted by the prospect of excellent Cheesecake, and sampled a Cappuccino (very good).  I have to admit that it looked great but coffee is just not for me.

Cappuccino at Five Elephant Berlin

And the Cheesecake? It was as good as it looks, if not better.

New York Cheesecake at Five Elephant Berlin

The top was rich and creamy and light and the biscuit base sweet and crunchy – so crunchy in fact that I somehow managed to get some in my pocket.

As well as the stellar desserts and great coffee, Five Elephant is in a great spot.  It’s just a short walk from the Landwehrkanal and what is arguably the most instagrammed view in Berlin – equally stunning in snow and sun.

The Landwehrkanal from Hobrechtbrücke on a snowy Berlin day

The Landwehrkanal from Hobrechtbrücke on a sunny Berlin day

For me, the New York Cheesecake at Five Elephant in Berlin is as close as a dessert can come to Heaven so it’s going to take some beating but I’m still going to continue my quest for Berlin’s best New York Cheesecake.

Berlin Burger International (BBI)

Berlin Burger International (BBI) in Neukölln

Berlin Burger International (BBI) has been on my to-do list so long that I can’t even remember where I heard about it – I just remember hearing that the burgers are amazing.

I was heading to Neukölln last week to check out an abandoned Children’s Hospital and had woken up with a burger craving so I decided to make a pit stop on the way.

Berlin Burger International is on Pannierstrasse not far from the corner with Sonnenallee so an easy walk from U-Bhf Hermannplatz.

Indoor seating is at a premium at BBI and knowing this I decided to delay my visit until 3 in the afternoon in the hope that the lunchtime rush would have died down and the dinner rush not started.  Well, either lots of other people had the same idea or this place is just busy all day long.

Fortunately, I went on the first sunny day in Berlin this year (an exaggeration but it feels a bit that way) and despite the cold people were sat on the benches outside eating their burgers.

I ordered a Chilli Cheesburger and Pommes (chips), grabbed a Bier from the fridge and sat down at a stool near the grill to wait for my food.

Chilli Cheeseburger at Berlin Burger International in Neukölln

My Chilli Cheesburger came loaded with toppings and a stick thrust through the bun doing its best to stop the whole lot spilling across the plate and was a taste sensation.

There were plenty of jalapenos and they along with the chilli in the cheese gave the burger a great kick and the smoky bacon added another dimension.  My one criticism would be that the sauce was a bit too BBQ like but that’s a very minor point – the Chilli Cheeseburger at Berlin Burger International is delicious.

So my advice is to get yourself down to Neukölln to try out Berlin Burger International, preferably when the sun is out and you can either sit on those benches outside or take your burger and sit near the canal.

Zsa Zsa Burger – Star Quality In Schöneberg

Zsa Zsa Burger Sign in Berlin Schöneberg

I have Chris Lietze of Blog’n'Burger to thank for introducing me to Zsa Zsa Burger.  My first visit to this Schöneberg burger restaurant was for BlognBurger11 and a few days later I was back again for more.

My first time at Zsa Zsa Burger I was tempted by The Silence of The Lambs described on the menu as:

Lamb burger served with red curry dip, the insider’s tip!

A very good burger – lots of meat and a tasty (though for me a little mild) curry sauce – and great chips but I had to go back to try the beef.

So on my second visit, just a few days later, I went for The Breakfast Burger, a beef burger topped with bacon and a fried egg.

Breakfast Burger at Zsa Zsa Burger in Berlin Schöneberg

Again, a very meaty burger and the runny yolk of the egg brought the delight that comes with messy food.  The buns at Zsa Zsa Burger also deserve a special mention.  I had the white sour dough version both times and they were delicious.

The Steak Burger, made with grilled Argentinian rib-eye steak and served with a Teryaki sour cream dip, also came highly recommended by Gilly.

Steak Burger at Zsa Zsa Burger in Berlin Schöneberg

Steak Burger at Zsa Zsa Burger – Photo courtesy of Gilly of Gilly’s Playground – http://blog.gilly.ws

The food at Zsa Zsa Burger is of a very high and consistent standard, the restaurant is smart and comfortable, the service is excellent and when I was there, super-quick despite being full on both occasions.

I followed up both of my visits to Zsa Zsa Burger with cocktails and would recommend both bars – Stagger Lee and Green Door.

Curry Mitte – Saucy Pleasure in Berlin

Curry Mitte Berlin Sign

It’s amazing that it took me so long to try Currwurst at Curry Mitte, an Imbiss on Rosenthaler Platz in Berlin, as it’s only about 1km from my flat, but thanks to a recommendation from Gian left in the comments of my Reasons I Miss Berlin #3 – Currywurst post I went there a couple of weeks ago.

Taking advantage of a special offer, I ordered Currywurst (mit darm) mit Pommes (Currywurst (with skin) and Chips) and a small bottle of Berliner Kindl for €4.50.

Currwurst and Chips (Currywurst mit Pommes) at Curry Mitte Berlin

And I have to agree with Gian that Curry Mitte serves one of the best Currywurst in Berlin.

I had the standard sauce, which was tasty and had enough curry to make it interesting without spoiling the flavour, but they do offer options to go spicier.  The sausage and the chips were also very good and with the special offer this was fantastic value for money.

The Currywurst at Curry Mitte is definitely up there amongst the best in Berlin that I have tasted – it wasn’t quite as good as zur Bratpfanne but it was a close run thing.

Photos From My Phone – January

The new year started with a bang – well, lots of them actually.  I spent my first Silvester (New Year’s Eve) in Berlin and went to watch the fireworks at Brandenburger Tor from a side street near Potsdamer Platz.  Here’s a short video:

For anyone who hasn’t experienced it, Silvester in Berlin is mental, with people launching rockets from their hands and throwing bangers at the feet of other revellers.  For a bit of an insight into just how ridiculous it can be, check out this video shot in Neukölln that night:

January is the month I finally succumbed to the lure of instagram and also discovered the joys of another great new app – Untapp’d – thanks to Gilly.  This is foursquare for boozing - check in your beers.

Potsdamer Rex Pils bottle top

After Christmas in Cardiff and some time settling back in to my Berlin routine I was getting Currywurst withdrawal symptoms so I headed to my favourite Berlin Imbisszur Bratpfanne.  Even standing around in freezing temperatures this is one hell of a lunch.

Currywurst mit Pommes at zur Bratpfanne in Berlin

Popping into the Hof at Haus Schwarzenberg near Hackescher Markt I saw this sticker by Mein Lieber Prost.

Prost - Joke Sticker - a twist on the Shepard Fairey Obama Hope poster by Mein Lieber Prost in Berlin

I spotted this ‘TANZ’ (dance) sign from a distance as I walked along Chaussestrasse and only realised as I got close that it is on the side of the Hafen Bar, somewhere I’ve been told I have to go for the Schlager (more withdrawal symptoms since Schmankerl-Hüttn closed).

Tanz (Dance) - Sign at Hafen Bar Berlin

The Berliner Philharmonie (Berlin Philharmonic) looks a little bit like a cross between a circus tent and an alien spaceship.

Berliner Philharmonie - The Berlin Philharmonic Hall at dusk on a snowy cold day

Beelitz-Heilstätten is a former tuberculosis sanatorium and German military hospital, where amongst others, Adolf Hitler convalesced after the First World War.  An hour or so from central Berlin, it has been abandoned for many years and is a popular urbex destination.  Most of the buildings have been secured now and this post indicates that someone is charging curious souls for entry.

Beelitz-Heilstätten - an abandoned tuberculosis sanatorium and German military hospital near Berlin

I spotted this cheeky cow when I was wandering around Kreuzberg on the day I found most of the Street Art that would feature in my MTO – Photorealistic Street Art in Berlin and Finding AliCé By Accident posts.

Cheeky Cow - Street Art by Unknown Artist in Berlin

Berlin went Bowie mad in January after he released Where Are We Now?  Read more about Bowie’s Berlin in my Famous Berliners: David Bowie post.

Bowie Insurrection Sticker on a Berlin lamp post

There was plenty of snow in Berlin in January and someone built this snow princess outside the hairdresser next to my building.

Snow Princess in Berlin

Why not follow me on instagram to keep up with my Berlin wanders – andberlinblog.  And if you like a beer download Untappd and find me – andberlin.

Marjellchen – Hearty and delicious German food in Berlin

The sign at Marjellchen - a German restaurant in Berlin

I think it’s fair to say that German cuisine (for some, that’s an oxymoron right there) doesn’t always get a good press but anyone who doubts the quality of deutsche Küche obviously hasn’t eaten at Marjellchen in Berlin.

My exposure to traditional Berlin food so far has consisted of Currwurst and Döner (and I’m a big fan of both, so that’s a good start) but when a recent discussion with Gilly, Bine and Steffi turned to their favourite dishes I was keen to expand my horizons.

I’ve been eager to eat at Marjellchen since I read this great post on Little Red Courgette months ago so it was my first suggestion.

Just reading the menu on the internet was enough to get my Berlin friends salivating, mmmm-ing, and talking of hunger despite having just finished a filling meal.

Arrangements were made to meet a few days later for an early dinner.

Marjellchen is in an unassuming building on Momsenstrasse in Charlottenburg just a few hundred yards from the S-Bahn station at Savignyplatz – a restaurant as homely as the food is hearty and the perfect spot for food that will protect you against the cold of a Berlin winter.

Now, I don’t normally have too much of an issue with a menu written in German but I guess I know what to expect from my usual haunts because I have to admit that the menu at Marjellchen was a mystery.  Thankfully, I had three ‘echte Berliners’ on hand to help out.

Don’t worry, if you arrive Berliner-less, I’m sure that the friendly staff at Marjellchen would be happy to help you out (there is an English menu on their website so they may have copies in the restaurant).

After requesting a few translations and taking on board some suggestions I decided on the Rinderroulade (bacon, onions, mustard and pickles wrapped in thinly sliced beef).

As Bine’s Kalbsleber “Berliner Art” (Calf’s Liver “Berlin Style”) arrived first I have to admit to a little food envy, likewise with Gilly’s Knusprig gebratene Landente (Crispy Roast Duck) and Steffi’s Schmandschinken (ostpreusßische Verführung) (Cream Ham (East Prussian temptation)).

Rinderroulade (bacon, onions, mustard and pickles wrapped in thinly sliced beef) at Marjellchen in Berlin

Luckily, when my Rinderroulade arrived I wasn’t disappointed.  Everything looked and smelled incredible and there were nods and ‘oohs’ and ‘aahs’ of approval all around the table.

The food tasted as good as it looked (if not better) and there was a full house of satisfied murmurs at the end of the main course.

And the desserts were even more remarkable (visually) than the main courses.

The Windbeutel (cream-puff served with ice cream and fruits) was enormous…

Windbeutel (cream-puff served with ice cream and fruits) at Marjellchens in Berlin

…and the Marjellchens Desserteller (Marjellchen’s Dessert Plate) sensational.

Marjellchens Desserteller (Marjellchen’s Dessert Plate) at Marjellchens in Berlin

I’m now torn between exploring more German restaurants in Berlin and going straight back to Marjellechen where I know I’ll have something more than a little bit special.

Reasons I Miss Berlin #3 – Currywurst

I Love Currywurst - sign on a Currywurst van at Ostbahnhof in Berlin

As much as I’m enjoying some home-cooked meals and the opportunity to have a great take-away curry back in the UK, I miss my favourite Berlin snack – Currywurst.

Over the last year I’ve been on a quest to find the best Currywurst in Berlin – my ‘Best of the Wurst’.

Here’s a rundown of my 3 favourite Currywurst Imbisse in Berlin.

1 – zur Bratpfanne

Currywurst & Chips (Currywurst mit Pommes) at Zur Bratpfanne in Berlin

The best Currywurst that I’ve had so far in Berlin is from zur Bratpfanne in Steglitz.  I loved it on my first visit and have been back a few times since, even making some special trips.

2 – Curry 66

Currywurst & Chips (Currywurst mit Pommes) at Curry 66 in Berlin

At Curry 66 the sauce is offered in 9 different levels of spiciness from ‘Angenehm’ to ‘Black Death’ – so far the spiciest I have had is 3: Scharf.

3 – Curry 36

Currywurst & Chips (Currywurst mit Pommes) at Curry 36 in Berlin

Curry 36 features in all the Berlin guidebooks and along with Konnopke’s Imbiss is probably the most famous of Berlin’s many Imbisse.  Devotees can now get their Curry 36 fix at Zoologischer Garten Bahnhof, as well as the original Imbiss on Mehringdamm.

Christmas in Cardiff

Christmas Pavlova with strawberries and grapes

It’s strange that a meal can be such a part of your upbringing, so much a family tradition and so culturally ingrained that it’s a surprise when someone else eats something different.  That is how I feel about Christmas Dinner.

It’s even more surprising when you learn that others celebrate and exchange presents on a different day.  I was surprised to learn that my German friends do their gift giving (Bescherung) on Christmas Eve (Heiligabend).

Then again, the routine in my own family has changed a little over the years.

I remember how magical Christmas seemed when I was growing up, when the anticipation, which built steadily from the opening of the first advent calendar window (with just a picture behind it, not chocolate), was almost unbearable.

Christmas Pudding with Dad Christmas Day 1981

Going to bed on Christmas Eve, often early as I remember it, I would lay my Paddington Bear pillow case at the foot of my bed to be filled by Father Christmas when he arrived.

In the morning, my brother and I would be up early, the excitement of the present opening process driving us out of bed.

We would then take our pillow cases full of presents to my Mum and Dad’s bedroom, where we would sit on the floor and tear off wrapping paper, whilst they watched for our reactions from their bed.

In our pillow case as well as our main presents there would always be: a bag of gold coins (from Marks & Spencer), an assortment of other chocolate and a satsuma and/or an apple.

Presents and an apple sat on the floor - Christmas Day 1981

Soon after the present opening was finished and still very early, my mum would go downstairs to put the turkey in the oven.

In my early years the turkey was a perk of my Dad’s job.  I remember one year he came home with a bird so big that mum had to cut the legs off to even fit it in the oven.

With the lunch preparations underway we would move downstairs and play with our toys and eat chocolate – “don’t eat so many that you spoil your lunch”.

In the background, Christmas music would play. There were other albums, but the one that I will always associate with those times is Perry Como’s Christmas album.

Lunch is turkey with all the trimmings – so many trimmings in fact that my dad needs two plates.

Dad's Christmas Dinner - Turkey with all the trimmings

The turkey is stuffed with parsley and thyme and sausage meat. There are Roast potatoes and new potatoes.  As if that’s not enough, there are carrots, cauliflower, broccoli, beans, parsnip and sprouts.  And everything is covered in gravy.

These days, the present opening is delayed until the afternoon of Christmas Day. This is when my niece and nephew arrive. They are now the focus of the attention. The almost unbearable anticipation now is to see their faces light up as they unwrap their gifts. My excitement comes from seeing their reaction to getting something they really wanted.