Tag Archives: Charlottenburg

Stolpersteine 194

Stolpersteine Berlin 194: In memory of Eliser Ehrenreich and Martha Gerson (Mommsenstrasse 69)

I have added photos of the Stolpersteine I saw in Berlin over the past week to my Stolpersteine Gallery.

The Stolpersteine I saw were memorials to: Eliser Ehrenreich and Martha Gerson (Mommsenstrasse 69)

You can find out more about artist Gunter Demnig his Stolpersteine project, that recognises the individuals who suffered at the hands of National Socialism, in my first post about Stolpersteine.

Stolpersteine 191

Stolpersteine Berlin 191: In memory of Luise Kautsky (Windscheidstrasse 31)

I have updated my Stolpersteine Gallery to include a photo of the Stolpersteine I saw in Berlin over the last week.

The Stolperstein I saw was laid in memory of Luise Kautsky (Windscheidstrasse 31).

My first post about Stolpersteine gives more background about these memorials to the victims of National Socialism created by artist Gunter Demnig.

Berlin Museum Marathon – Making The Most of a 3-Day Museum Pass

Berlin Museum Pass and Tickets

When I left my job in London to move to Berlin my colleagues made a collection and bought me The Berlin Pass, which includes a 3-Day Berlin Museum Pass.

Bought separately, the Museum Pass costs €19 and with it you get free entry to 55 of Berlin’s best museums and galleries.

Last week, I finally felt that I had the time and the energy needed to make the most out of it and, having drawn up an itinerary the night before, I set out on Tuesday to visit as many of the qualifying museums and galleries as possible.

Day 1

Hamburger Bahnhof - Museum für Gegenwart (Museum of Contemporary Art) in Berlin

Hamburger Bahnhof – Museum für Gegenwart (Museum of Contemporary Art)*

Berliner Medizinhistorisches Museum der Charité
 (Berlin Museum of Medical History at the Charité)

Gemäldegalerie (Old Masters Paintings)

Musikinstrumenten-Museum (Musical Instrument Museum)

Neue Nationalgalerie (New National Gallery)*

Had they been open I would also have visited the Kupferstischkabinett (Museum of Prints and Drawings) and revisited the Kunstgewerbemuseum (Museum of Decorative Arts) whilst I was at the Kulturforum.

Day 2

Jewish Museum Berlin - Memory Void

Jüdisches Museum Berlin (Jewish Museum Berlin)*

Deutsches Technikmuseum (German Museum of Technology)

Altes Museum (Museum of the Ancient World)

I had much more planned for Day 2 but hadn’t grasped just how big the Deutsches Technikmuseum is.

Day 3

Allied Museum Berlin - Spy Tunnel

Alliierten Museum (Allied Museum)

Brücke Museum

Sammlung Scharf-Gerstenberg (Scharf-Gerstenberg Collection)

Alte Nationalgalerie (Old National Gallery)

I would also have revisited the Neues Museum (New Museum) whilst I was on Museumsinsel but there was a €4 entry fee, as there was a temporary exhibition.

A 3-Day Museum Pass costs €19 and in 3 days the combined total of the standard entrance prices to all the museums and galleries I visited was €87.  That said, I wouldn’t recommend that everyone tries to see 12 different venues with their pass.

When I decided to use my pass in this way I knew that I wouldn’t be able to spend as much time as I would like in the museums that appealed to me but I wanted to sample as many as possible and then return to my favourites at a late date.

Also, I was revisiting some (marked with *) for the sake of taking more photographs and checking for any changes since I had last been.

Neue Nationalgalerie Berlin

It’s also worth pointing out that at the end of each day my feet felt the way they used to during my holidays in Berlin when I would sit on the edge of the bath with an icy cold beer in my hand and my feet in cool water until the throbbing stopped.

In the coming weeks I will post about my favourite venues that I visited during my Berlin Museum Pass Marathon.

The 3-Day Berlin Museum Pass is available from the participating museums and galleries and Berlin’s Visitor Information Centres or can be ordered online from visitBerlin.  There is also a list of the 55 museums and galleries the Museum Pass gives you access to on the visitBerlin website.

Stolpersteine 189 – 190

Stolpersteine Berlin 189 (7): In memory of Alice Schlesinger and Hedi Leonie Schlesinger (Schlüterstrasse 54)

I have updated my Stolpersteine Gallery to include photos of the Stolpersteine I saw in Berlin in the past week.

The Stolpersteine I saw were dedicated to: Rosa Phiebig, Charlotte Heilborn, Erwin Nellhaus, Marie Lion, Else Moser, Emilie Kass, Ida Elsbach, Selma Grünthal, Salomo Goldstein, Paul Rathe, Otto Rathe, Gertrud Friedlaender, Wilhelm Abramczyk, Gertrud Abramczyck, Gertrud Katzenstein, Alice Schlesinger, Hedi Leonie Schlesinger, Ida Wollheim, Julie Sahlmann (Schlüterstrasse 54); Adolf Cohn and Gertrud Stern (Schlüterstrasse 53).

I explained the background to these memorials to the victims of National Socialism and the project created by artist Gunter Demnig in my first post about Stolpersteine.

Marjellchen – Hearty and delicious German food in Berlin

The sign at Marjellchen - a German restaurant in Berlin

I think it’s fair to say that German cuisine (for some, that’s an oxymoron right there) doesn’t always get a good press but anyone who doubts the quality of deutsche Küche obviously hasn’t eaten at Marjellchen in Berlin.

My exposure to traditional Berlin food so far has consisted of Currwurst and Döner (and I’m a big fan of both, so that’s a good start) but when a recent discussion with Gilly, Bine and Steffi turned to their favourite dishes I was keen to expand my horizons.

I’ve been eager to eat at Marjellchen since I read this great post on Little Red Courgette months ago so it was my first suggestion.

Just reading the menu on the internet was enough to get my Berlin friends salivating, mmmm-ing, and talking of hunger despite having just finished a filling meal.

Arrangements were made to meet a few days later for an early dinner.

Marjellchen is in an unassuming building on Momsenstrasse in Charlottenburg just a few hundred yards from the S-Bahn station at Savignyplatz – a restaurant as homely as the food is hearty and the perfect spot for food that will protect you against the cold of a Berlin winter.

Now, I don’t normally have too much of an issue with a menu written in German but I guess I know what to expect from my usual haunts because I have to admit that the menu at Marjellchen was a mystery.  Thankfully, I had three ‘echte Berliners’ on hand to help out.

Don’t worry, if you arrive Berliner-less, I’m sure that the friendly staff at Marjellchen would be happy to help you out (there is an English menu on their website so they may have copies in the restaurant).

After requesting a few translations and taking on board some suggestions I decided on the Rinderroulade (bacon, onions, mustard and pickles wrapped in thinly sliced beef).

As Bine’s Kalbsleber “Berliner Art” (Calf’s Liver “Berlin Style”) arrived first I have to admit to a little food envy, likewise with Gilly’s Knusprig gebratene Landente (Crispy Roast Duck) and Steffi’s Schmandschinken (ostpreusßische Verführung) (Cream Ham (East Prussian temptation)).

Rinderroulade (bacon, onions, mustard and pickles wrapped in thinly sliced beef) at Marjellchen in Berlin

Luckily, when my Rinderroulade was placed before me I wasn’t disappointed.  Everything looked and smelled incredible and there were nods and ‘oohs’ and ‘aahs’ of approval all around the table.

The food tasted as good as it looked (if not better) and there was a full house of satisfied murmurs at the end of the main course.

And the desserts were even more remarkable (visually) than the main courses.

The Windbeutel (cream-puff served with ice cream and fruits) was enormous…

Windbeutel (cream-puff served with ice cream and fruits) at Marjellchens in Berlin

…and the Marjellchens Desserteller (Marjellchen’s Dessert Plate) sensational.

Marjellchens Desserteller (Marjellchen’s Dessert Plate) at Marjellchens in Berlin

I’m now torn between exploring more German restaurants in Berlin and going straight back to Marjellechen where I know I’ll have something more than a little bit special.

Famous Berliners: David Bowie

David Bowie - Where Are We Now? (screenshot from the Official Video)

Almost three weeks ago now, on his 66th birthday, David Bowie surprised everyone by releasing a new song – Where Are We Now? – a melancholy tune that reflects on his time living in Berlin in the 1970s.

Following the new single’s release my social media feeds were abuzz with (mainly positive) reactions and Berlin talked of its adoptive son, Bowie.

The feeling that history was made (good and bad) in its streets and the sense of following in the footsteps of others is one of the things that intrigues me about the city and hearing this song prompted me to go out and explore Bowie’s Berlin, something I’d been meaning to do since I arrived more than a year ago.

Many of the buildings where Bowie spent his time are, as you can imagine, non-descript, and some venues have changed name, appearance or no longer exist, but it was interesting to walk where he would have walked all the same.

Bowie’s Flat on Hauptstrasse

Bowie's Flat (Hauptstrasse 155) in Berlin

When David Bowie moved to Berlin in 1976 he found a flat in an Altbau at Hauptstrasse 155 in Schöneberg, which he shared with Iggy Pop.

Neues Ufer (formerly Anderes Ufer)

Neues Ufer (Anderes Ufer) - a Bowie haunt in Berlin

Next door to his former flat, at Hauptstrasse 157, is a café, Neues Ufer, which was known as Anderes Ufer in the days when Bowie and Iggy Pop would spend time there.

Chez Romy Haag

Chez Romy Haag, a nightclub run by the Dutch transsexual born Edouard Frans Verbaarsschott, was at the crossroads of Welserstrasse and Fuggerstrasse.  I haven’t been able to find a precise address so I could only guess which corner having visited.

Hansa Studios

Hansa Studios in Berlin - where David Bowie recorded Low and Heroes

Not far from Potsdamer Platz (written as Potzdamer Platz in the Where Are We Now? video) at Köthener Strasse 38 is Hansa Studios.

It was here in 1977 that Bowie, with Brian Eno, recorded Low and Heroes, two of the albums in what has become known as his Berlin Trilogy (though the third, Lodger was recorded in Switzerland).

It wasn’t until I read the many articles about his new single that I knew that one of his most celebrated songs, Heroes, is about a couple who kiss in the shadow of the Berlin Wall.

SO36

Bowie was apparently a fan of SO36, the legendary punk club on Kreuzberg’s Oranienstrasse.

Café Exil

Another former Bowie haunt that I visited but didn’t photograph was the Café Exil (now the restaurant Horváth) which had scaffolding erected for renovations.

Paris Bar

Paris Bar - a Bowie haunt in Berlin

Bowie liked to go to Paris Bar, the restaurant at Kantstrasse 152, when he was feeling extravagant and was in the mood to celebrate.

Dschungel

Ellington Hotel - where the Dschungel - a Bowie haunt in Berlin - was

It was presumably after a visit to Dschungel, another of his favourite hangouts and mentioned in his new song, that Bowie became ‘a man lost in time near KaDeWe’.

Dschungel was around the corner from Berlin’s luxury department store on Nürnberger Strasse (referred to as Nurnberger Strasse in the song) in the basement of what is now the Ellington Hotel, a building with a rich musical history.

The Brücke Museum

Bowie would visit this small museum on the edge of the Grunewald and admire the works of the expressionist painters housed here that provided the inspiration for the cover of Heroes.

I plan to visit the Brücke Museum later this week.

Bowie Events in Berlin

If you’re a Bowie fan and will be in Berlin in February you might want to get yourself along to a couple of events organised by avid fan, Mike T West.

There is a Feeling Gloomy Berlin Bowie Special at Roter Salon on 2 February – see the Facebook event page for more details.

Also Mike will be doing a Bowie Walk in Berlin on 16 February – see Gidsy for more info.

If by any chance you haven’t heard the song or reading about Bowie’s time in Berlin means you want to listen again, here it is:

David Bowie – Where Are We Now?

Stolpersteine 187 – 188

Stolpersteine Berlin 187 (1): In memory of Richard Wilde and Wolfgang Wilde (Wielandstrasse 30)

I have updated my Stolpersteine Gallery to include photos of the Stolpersteine I saw in Berlin in the last week.

The Stolpersteine I saw were dedicated to: Richard Wilde, Wolfgang Wilde, Martha Kiwi, Regina Warszawski, Fanny Elkan, Josef Gross, Margarete Gross, Rudolf Kirchheim (Wielandstrasse 30); Wolf M Ehrenreich, Ernst W Ehrenreich, Rosa Hirschweh, Curt Hirschweh and Gertrud Müller (Wielandstrasse 31).

My first post about Stolpersteine gives more background about these memorials to the victims of National Socialism created by artist Gunter Demnig.

Famous Berliners: The Brothers Grimm

The graves of the Brothers Grimm (Gebrüder Grimm) in the Alter St-Matthäus-Kirchof in Schöneberg in Berlin

I’m currently reading The Brothers Grimm’s Fairy Tales (Grimms Märchen) so Jacob and Wilhelm Grimm seemed like a logical choice to launch a new series of posts on andBerlin – Famous Berliners.

In this series I hope to present some of the characters whose histories have become entwined with the history of the city itself – men and women who have shaped the political, literary or musical development of Berlin or in some way altered the lives of its citizens.

Many of these people, like myself, will not be born and bred Berliners, some may have spent only a little time here but all will have left their mark.

Jacob and Wilhelm Grimm only spent the years from 1840 until their deaths in 1859 and 1863 in Berlin, working at the University but their bodies are buried at the Alter St-Matthäus-Kirchof in Schöneberg.

The graves of the Brothers Grimm (Gebrüder Grimm) in the Alter St-Matthäus-Kirchof in Schöneberg Berlin

Grimm’s Fairy Tales have been thrilling and frightening children in equal measure since they were first published as a collection of Children’s and Household Tales in 1812.

Their book was the first time that many of these folklores, that up to that point had been passed down orally from generation to generation, had appeared in print and was therefore responsible for introducing the tales to the wider world.  Amongst the most popular stories they brought us are Cinderella (Ashputtel); Snow White (Snow Drop); Sleeping Beauty (Rose-bud);  Rumpelstiltskin; and Rapunzel.

Whilst they are best known for their fairy tales the Brothers Grimm were academics and their collection of folk stories grew out of their work in Philology, the study of languages, particularly in relation to historical texts.

After the publication of their most well known work the Grimms continued their studies of the German language and Jacob Grimm is credited with Grimm’s Law a set of statements that describe the development of Proto-Germanic from Proto-Indo-European languages.

The Brothers also began work on a German dictionary, which remained unfinished at their deaths.

Jacob-und-Wilhelm-Grimm-Zentrum (Jacob and Wilhelm Grimm Centre) opened in Berlin in 2009 and houses the Central Library of the Humboldt University.  The building is located on Geschwister-Scholl-Strasse and visible from the S-Bahn as it travels between Friedrichstrasse and Hackescher Markt.

Jacob-und-Wilhelm-Grimm-Zentrum - the building named after the Brothers Grimm, authors of Grimm's Fairy Tales, houses the central library of the Humboldt University

Stolpersteine 184 – 186

Stolpersteine Berlin 185 (Mommsenstrasse 55): In memory of Martha Konicki

I have added the photos of the Stolpersteine I have seen in Berlin over the past week to the photo gallery here.

The Stolpersteine I saw were memorials to: Hedwig Salomon, Arthur Silbermann, Jenny Themal, Abraham Jüttner, Else Jüttner, Sieobert Jüttner, Bela and Ingeborg Jüttner (Mommsenstrasse 45); Martha Konicki (Mommsenstrasse 55); Gertrud Gumpert and Dr Fritz Gumpert (Mommsenstrasse 56).

My first post about Stolpersteine gives more background about these memorials to the victims of National Socialism created by artist Gunter Demnig.

Stolpersteine 180 – 183

Stolpersteine Berlin 181: In memory of Max Sellheim (Corner of Naunynstrasse and Manteuffelstrasse)

I have added the photos of the Stolpersteine I have seen in Berlin over the past week to the photo gallery here.

The Stolpersteine were dedicated to: Margareta Pohlmann (Schwedter Strasse 33); Max Sellheim (Corner of Naunynstrasse and Manteuffelstrasse); Nissim Behar, Alegrina Behar, Lea Behar and Jeanne Behar (Kantstrasse 154A); Anna Goldstrom, Clara Arnheim, Ella Rosenbaum and Ernst Lippmann (Uhlandstrasse 181 – 183).

My first post about Stolpersteine gives more background about these memorials to the victims of National Socialism created by artist Gunter Demnig.