Tag Archives: Urbex

Bahnbetriebswerk Pankow-Heinersdorf – An Abandoned Train Yard

Urban exploring doesn’t get much easier than a visit to the Bahnbetriebswerk Pankow-Heinersdorf (far easier to visit than say) an abandoned train yard in Berlin. The train sheds, administrative buildings and turntable are conveniently (for exploring and formerly for repairing and servicing trains) right next to the S-Bahnhof.

Crossing the open land between the road and the main buildings I was a little nervous about being seen from the train station but there are no walls, fences or other barriers.

Opened on 1 October 1893 the train yard and depot operated until the 1990s but has been derelict since. For a more detailed history of the Bahnbetriebswerk Pankow-Heinersdorf read this post on Digital Cosmonaut.

The first building I entered was the Roundhouse.

Back outside, I made my way through a number of outbuildings to the Train Turntable (Drehscheibe).

Then into the Engine sheds.

I went to Bahnbetriebswerk Pankow-Heinersdorf after my visit to the abandoned Iraqi Embassy so the light was fading at this stage and I didn’t have time to check out the administrative building. Watching the sun setting over the buildings I didn’t want to leave but exploring in the dark isn’t easy and is potentially dangerous.

For more impressions of the abandoned Bahnbetriebswerk Pankow-Heinersdorf in Berlin, check out this iPhone video from Albert N Romero.

Güterbahnhof Berlin-Pankow – Abandoned Train Roundhouse

Teufelsberg – A Return To The Devil’s Mountain

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Berlin was cold but sunny yesterday and when a friend had the ‘crazy idea’ to walk up the Teufelsberg I didn’t take much persuading.

The Teufelsberg (Devil’s Mountain) is a hill in the Grunewald forest in Berlin and is most famous for the former NSA Listening Station that sits at its peak.

As we walked from Grunewald S-Bahnhof I recounted the story of my previous trip to Teufelsberg in August 2010. Then, the Grunewald lived up to its name (Green Forest) but yesterday the predominant colour was white, the snow laying thick on the ground.

Having reached the top of the Teufelsberg we walked around the perimeter fence of the former NSA facility occasionally stopping to look up at the domes looming high above us.

On the Western slope of the hill we came across a group of sledgers, skiers and snowboarders enjoying the snow on the Rodelberg (the best translation from Google is toboggan mountain).

When we reached the main gates of the former NSA Listening station a guide was preparing to take a group of visitors on a tour and on a whim we decided to join them.

For €7 (or a reduced price of €5 for students) our guide led us to the main building in the complex and up the highest tower.

The main change to the building since my last visit was the addition of lots of great Street Art (much of it created for the aborted Artbase 2012 event) – so much in fact that I will post about it separately.

Our first stop as we climbed the tower was the highest floor with a view over Berlin.

Then it was up to the top dome, with its incredible acoustics, where we were treated to an impromptu performance from a singer who was there when we arrived.

Our guide (off camera in the video) then took up the baton and gave his own performance.

As we descended we stopped on the roof of the main building for more photo opportunities and as luck would have it we had timed it perfectly to see some wonderful colours in the sky as the sun began to set.

And then it was time to leave.

I think that €7 is a small price to pay for the wonderful views over Berlin and the opportunity to walk around the former NSA Listening Station at Teufelsberg but the adrenaline rush of sneaking through the fence on my previous visit was sadly missing.

The Abandoned Iraqi Embassy in Berlin (Die Verlassene Irakische Botschaft)

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Built in 1974 and empty since staff were ordered to leave during the Gulf War in January 1991 the abandoned Iraqi Embassy in Berlin is a popular Urbex destination.

The non-descript pre-fabricated concrete building (the Plattenbau style so common in Soviet-era East Germany) sits in a quiet cul-de-sac in the former diplomatic quarter of the Deutsche Demokratische Republik (DDR) in Pankow.

Its grey walls belie its colourful past.

Iraq was the first non-Socialist country to recognise the DDR as a state in 1969 and a special friendship developed between the two countries. It is widely believed that the DDR was offering scientific help to Iraq, particularly with their development of nuclear and chemical weapons.

In 1980, two members of staff from the embassy were arrested in West Berlin whilst attempting deliver a suitcase of explosives as part of a plot to kill a group of Kurdish dissidents at a meeting in Wedding.

The embassy came under renewed scrutiny in 1990 when it was reported in the magazine Junge Welt, that the building was being used to stockpile weapons and explosives and to protect terrorists. The East German Interior Ministry confirmed the weapons find and activities at the embassy were monitored closely.

And then they were gone.

Looking at the building now it would seem that when staff were ordered to leave in 1991 they left in a hurry. The Iraqi Embassy to the re-unified Germany is now in Dahlem and has been since 2003.

Germany owns the land on which the now derelict embassy stands but granted Iraq perpetual rights to the land and building. This has left the plot in a state of limbo. The Germans say they have no right to it and the Iraqis have their shiny new embassy so they’re not interested.

The Iraqi Embassy is in a dreadful state.

It is a series of dark corridors and draughty rooms, many of which are now completely open to the elements and there is broken glass and paperwork everywhere.

A lot of the writing is in Arabic so I can’t be sure but I assume any sensitive documents were taken away. At one time the books, papers and files must have been stored neatly on shelves and in cupboards but now they are strewn across the floor and amassed in great heaps.

The smell of mouldy paper is overpowering.

As in all abandoned buildings the visitors have left their mark in the form of pictures, slogans and more considered art.

The furniture has been moved, papers have been burned and typewriters, faxes and photocopiers have been smashed and their keys have been removed.

It is clear that many treasures have been looted.

Early blog posts and newspaper articles mention framed portraits of Saddam Hussein hanging on the walls – some of the authors even boast of the souvenirs they took.

Now there are just a few newspapers and calendars bearing his image.

I would recommend visiting the abandoned Iraqi Embassy in Berlin soon before all vestiges of its past life have been plundered, damaged or burnt and all that’s left is a derelict shell. Who knows, Germany and Iraq may one day even sort out the issue of ownership and put the land to new use.

Rewatex – Abandoned Laundry and Dyeing Factory – Berlin

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In autumn sunlight the abandoned industrial laundry and dyeing factory on the Spree, previously Rewatex, looks almost inviting as an urbex destination but in the snow and cold of a Berlin winter it’s a different story.

When Digital Cosmonaut suggested a trip out to Spindlersfeld last October to explore an abandoned factory I jumped at the chance. By coincidence, just a few weeks before, as we stood on the opposite side of the river in Köpenick, Bine had told me about the factory where Dry Cleaning had first been developed.

Wilhelm Spindler formed W Spindler, a laundry and dyeing company, in Berlin in 1832 and the headquarters of the firm moved to Spindlersfeld (then Oberspree) in 1873.

The company was acquired by the state in 1949 and renamed VEB Blütenweisß. In 1961 the name changed to VEB Vereinigte Wäschereien Berlin Rewatex (VEB Rewatex for short) and in 1981 to VEB Kombinat Rewatex.

After the fall of the Berlin Wall the company was again renamed, this time becoming Rewatex AG and was acquired by Kölner Larosé Hygiene-Service-GmbH in 1992. Shortly after re-privatisation operations ceased and the factory at Spindlersfeld has been empty ever since.

The main factory building is laid out as a square, which means seemingly endless corridors and open rooms with many supporting columns.

There is also a central courtyard, now overgrown with weeds, which helps give a sense of scale to the complex and is useful when orienting yourself whilst exploring.

There are signs of the administrative functions of the upper floors of the building with invoices, ledgers and other paperwork strewn across the floors, some showing signs of fire damage.

There are the usual signs of disrepair and neglect around the building – floors are warped, ceilings are collapsing and there is graffiti on many surfaces.

Someone may have been contemplating a repair on this hole in an upper floor but I don’t think Lego bricks would really serve the purpose.

There are also a couple of outbuildings worth poking your head into, though there is not much to be seen in them.

My revisit a couple of weeks ago was prompted by one of my favourite Berlin based Street Artists, KEN, posting a photo on his Facebook page of a piece he had painted at the factory.

It took me a little while to find, as there is only one opening, which would have been a doorway when the room had a floor, that gives a view of the piece.

The room in which it was painted was badly damaged by a fire on the night of 29 September 2006, which destroyed the upper two floors. A new roof has since been added – the pristine wood incongruous amongst the damaged brickwork and piles of rubble below.

I didn’t hang around too long on my revisit to the abandoned Rewatex laundry in Berlin because there were animal tracks in the snow not accompanied by human footprints so I wasn’t entirely sure I was alone. Besides, the site wasn’t as inviting as my first visit as the following two shots show.

Photos From My Phone – January

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The new year started with a bang – well, lots of them actually. I spent my first Silvester (New Year’s Eve) in Berlin and went to watch the fireworks at Brandenburger Tor from a side street near Potsdamer Platz. Here’s a short video:

For anyone who hasn’t experienced it, Silvester in Berlin is mental, with people launching rockets from their hands and throwing bangers at the feet of other revellers. For a bit of an insight into just how ridiculous it can be, check out this video shot in Neukölln that night:

January is the month I finally succumbed to the lure of instagram and also discovered the joys of another great new app – Untapp’d – thanks to Gilly. This is foursquare for boozing - check in your beers.

After Christmas in Cardiff and some time settling back in to my Berlin routine I was getting Currywurst withdrawal symptoms so I headed to my favourite Berlin Imbiss – zur Bratpfanne. Even standing around in freezing temperatures this is one hell of a lunch.

Popping into the Hof at Haus Schwarzenberg near Hackescher Markt I saw this sticker by Mein Lieber Prost.

I spotted this ‘TANZ’ (dance) sign from a distance as I walked along Chaussestrasse and only realised as I got close that it is on the side of the Hafen Bar, somewhere I’ve been told I have to go for the Schlager (more withdrawal symptoms since Schmankerl-Hüttn closed).

The Berliner Philharmonie (Berlin Philharmonic) looks a little bit like a cross between a circus tent and an alien spaceship.

Beelitz-Heilstätten is a former tuberculosis sanatorium and German military hospital, where amongst others, Adolf Hitler convalesced after the First World War. An hour or so from central Berlin, it has been abandoned for many years and is a popular urbex destination. Most of the buildings have been secured now and this post indicates that someone is charging curious souls for entry.

I spotted this cheeky cow when I was wandering around Kreuzberg on the day I found most of the Street Art that would feature in my MTO – Photorealistic Street Art in Berlin and Finding AliCé By Accident posts.

Berlin went Bowie mad in January after he released Where Are We Now? Read more about Bowie’s Berlin in my Famous Berliners: David Bowie post.

There was plenty of snow in Berlin in January and someone built this snow princess outside the hairdresser next to my building.

Why not follow me on instagram to keep up with my Berlin wanders – andberlinblog. And if you like a beer download Untappd and find me – andberlin.

Art On A Crumbling Canvas: Papierfabrik Wolfswinkel

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I would have loved Papierfabrik Wolfswinkel, an abandoned paper mill near Berlin, for the architecture, the atmosphere and the sense of history, but finding the walls daubed with Street Art was the icing on the cake.

When I suggested to Digital Cosmonaut and Irish Berliner (the man behind Abandoned Berlin) that we visit the disused paper factory in Wolfswinkel, I was thinking about the opportunity of capturing the dereliction, the industrial relics and the varying light conditions. And I got to do that, as you can see here.

Finding colourful Street Art (or maybe that should be Urban Art given that it wasn’t on the street) on many of the walls was a real bonus. And there was so much of it that I felt it needed a post of its own.

The cover photo on this post was in the first room we looked into and it was a taste of things to come.

Kim Köster

After many hours on the internet trying to find the artist’s name I now think that much of the art at Papierfabrik Wolfswinkel is the work of Kim Köster. If anyone can confirm that, or put me right, I’d be very grateful.

It wasn’t just the quality of the artwork that impressed me about the artist’s work. The placement was also spot on – many of the pieces interacted with their surroundings, as the best Street Art should.

Shadows were a key feature in a number of the pieces but at times the real genius was a combination of the clever placement and these shadows. The artist had incorporated the light and shadow of the surroundings into the art, which I first noticed with the shadow below the hammock in the next piece, cast by the pillar from which the hammock was ‘strung’ (note the hammock is painted on a wall some way back from the pillars).

I also saw a piece that I believe is by the same artist in the chapel at Kaserne Krampnitz, though I wasn’t able to get a decent picture because of a lack of light.

If you like the artist’s work, you should check out his website and I would recommend checking out his 99 Rooms project – incredible.

Unknown Artists

Not all of the art at Papierfabrik Wolfswinkel was by Kim Köster though. There was plenty of other great art. I haven’t been able to identify the artist for some of these next pieces so if anyone has any info please let me know in the comments so I can give the proper credit.

This piece Para Siempre (Forever) was a tableau of skulls.

There was a selection of Graffiti as well as the Street Art.

Remy Uno

I liked this playful piece by Marseille-based artist Remy Uno, proof that the eyes are the window to the soul.

EVOL

And finally, I have managed to find an EVOL in (or at least near) Berlin having seen my first Plattenbauten by the artist in London recently.

If you like Urban Exploration (Urbex) and you’re ever in Berlin, you should definitely head out of the city and check out the Papierfabrik Wolfswinkel – it’s well worth the trip for that alone. If you’ve also got an interest in Street Art it’s a no-brainer – go tomorrow.

Papierfabrik Wolfswinkel: Exploring An Abandoned Paper Mill

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Papierfabrik Wolfswinkel is a disused paper mill about an hour from Berlin by train and bus (including waiting for connections) and an urbex enthusiast’s wet dream.

Last week I met up with a couple of fellow Berliners eager to explore Berlin’s past through its abandoned buildings – Digital Cosmonaut and Irish Berliner of Abandoned Berlin.

You can see Digital Cosmonaut’s post about our adventure here.

After a couple of false starts due to the unsettled weather we decided to head to Eberswalde to check out Papierfabrik Wolfswinkel, which I first heard about when Sherry of Ottsworld took a Photo tour there during her time in Berlin as a guest blogger for Go With Oh.

The abandoned paper factory at Wolfswinkel was built in 1762 and is listed as a Baudenkmal – recognition that it is a building of historic importance.

The district of Barnim has a long tradition of paper production dating back to the 1530s and at one time the mills in the area were responsible for the production of all of the paper used by the Deutsches Reich for the printing of banknotes. Another mill in the area, Papierfabrik Spechthausen, produced the paper used to create the counterfeit pound notes for Operation Bernhard – an attempt to destabilise the British economy during the Second World War.

In 1956, Papierfabrik Wolfswinkel took over the production of a famous handcrafted paper with a woodpecker watermark when the Papierfabrik Spechthausen was acquisitioned by the army.

Unfortunately, the paper factory like many of Berlin’s abandoned buildings was a victim of German reunification. Paper production ceased in 1992, though it seems some stock still exists and the former owner has opened a paper museum on the site.

Now, the factory is not a lot more than a shell.

Here and there though there are some reminders of it’s industrial past in the machinery, vats and pipework that remain.

And the various signs and writing on the walls.

There was also a wealth of art throughout the building – so much that I will devote a whole post to it.

Entering one of the buildings we stopped in our tracks when we heard what we first thought was machinery running. Having decided to carry on towards the source of the noise we were surprised to find it was water gushing from a stream outside and through the building.

It was obvious as we were wandering around that some of the buildings are in use and ironically, as we started to think of going home we came across someone at the perimeter of the grounds who could tell from the way we were sneaking around that we didn’t have permission to be there. But much to our surprise, rather than telling us to leave, he told us that we should have reported ourselves when we arrived and to let him know when we were leaving. It seems that visitors are allowed at the site but in the interests of safety and in attempt to curb vandalism the owners like to know who is there.

The one disappointment of the day was that it wasn’t possible to climb the tower we had seen from the outside of the building.

The ladder that had presumably run up the inside of the tower had been removed. Climbing the pipework inside wouldn’t have got us very far so we had to be content with looking up into the empty space.

But that was only a minor irritation after roaming around freely in the rest of the buildings.

Even a sudden downpour as we left and made our way to the nearest bus stop couldn’t dampen my spirits. I had enjoyed exploring the abandoned Papierfabrik Wolfswinkel so much that wet jeans clinging to my thighs on the journey home was a small price to pay.

Sanatorium E – Abandoned Tuberculosis Hospital

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On Saturday, Digital Cosmonaut and I met again to explore another of Berlin’s abandoned places, often referred to as Sanatorium E.

After the success of our trip to Kaserne Krampnitz, which you can see more of in my post and on Digital Cosmonaut, we were determined to see more of Berlin’s derelict buildings before they are lost to developers or vandals.

Looking for places to go on our second foray I spent some time on the internet googling ‘abandoned places’ and trawling through urbex forums.

I came across a number of references to Sanatorium E and some pretty amazing pictures but try as I might I couldn’t find out where it was. I e-mailed my partner in crime with some vague details that I had been able to glean: references to Sanatorium E, named after the doctor’s wife, in a forest near Potsdam.

Not much to go on I grant you but on Friday evening I got an e-mail back to say that he had managed to track it down and a plan was made to meet the next day.

On Saturday as before, we met at Alexanderplatz and a train and a bus ride later we were standing by the side of a road in the middle of nowhere.

After a short wild goose chase, having set off in the wrong direction, we got our first sighting of the building and walked along the perimeter fence looking for a way in. It didn’t take long to find a section of the fence that had been trampled down and we stepped over and onto the property.

Entering the building proved to be equally straightforward. There was an open doorway just a few metres from where we had crossed the fence.

We walked through a storage room with a partially collapsed roof, through a tiled room that may have once been a kitchen and straight into one of the photos we had both seen often in our research, the piano room.

It was whilst we were here that we first had company but thankfully it wasn’t security. A group of four people came in and were a little surprised to find us taking photographs. We in turn were confused as to their interest in the building if they weren’t taking photos, though we later came to the conclusion that they were on some kind of treasure hunt or geo-caching trip.

As we set off along the main corridor we realised that this would be a very different experience to our outing to Kaserne Krampnitz and most of our photos would be about ‘the details’.

I took a lot of photos of switches, bottles, sinks and signs.

It was when we went up to the attic rooms that my heart first quickened. Treading carefully across a creaking floor we spotted a camp bed posed under a skylight.

And nearby was a cup on an upturned basket, which also caught my attention.

As did an empty bottle of Maracuja (passion fruit drink) lying on the floor.

A panel surrounding a flue as it poked through the roof above this scene had been painted red and made it look in the dim light as if the roof had caught light.

Another of the more intriguing finds and most obvious photo opportunities of the day was a bottle of Fusilade, a herbicide, posing in a medicine cabinet with a surgical glove in a glass beaker.

The sign states ‘Only drugs intended for use on patients should be kept here’.

Here are a few more things that caught my eye in the building.

Unsurprisingly in a clinic that treated Tuberculosis patients we came across a number of signs stating ‘Rauchen Verboten’ (smoking forbidden), including this one on a verandah that may have been used by patients to get the benefits of some fresh air.

We were careful to take nothing, leave only footprints and would have closed the door if possible.

Click here to see Digital Cosmonaut’s post about Sanatorium E.

Kaserne Krampnitz

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Kaserne Krampnitz (Krampnitz Barracks) is one of Berlin’s unofficial attractions. The site was first occupied by the Nazis and after the end of WWII the Soviets moved in.

I have wanted to explore since I came across a description of a visit on Abandoned Berlin, an invaluable resource for anyone thinking of visiting some of Berlin’s less obvious places of interest. So when Digital Cosmonaut got in touch after reading my Hitler’s Folly – Schwerbelastungskörper post to see if I would be interested in going to some of the sites on Abandoned Berlin I jumped at the chance. If these sneak peek photos are anything to go by I can’t wait to see his post. ***Update: the full post is now up and the photos are just as good as I expected, check them out here.***

We arranged to meet at Alexanderplatz and after hopping on a train and a bus we arrived at Krampnitz.

The former military base is surrounded by a high wall, fences and locked gates but we quickly found a gap in a fence and crawled through.

The complex covers a vast area and many of the buildings here look alike. With hindsight we should have had a system so we could tell which buildings we had been in and it was shortly before we left as we were discussing this that I spotted a number on one of the buildings.

It was clear from our wanderings that the Soviets loved their basketball – we found two basketball courts – and valued sporting pursuits.

Art also seemed to play a big part in their lives, as there were artworks lying around and many murals on the walls.

And a number of the buildings had impressive external decorations, some of which also showed the appreciation of athletic prowess.

As well as the Soviet art there were some more recent additions.

And I spotted three pieces by Matt Adnate, who featured in my All those in favour say ‘Eye’ post.

The most written about and photographed feature at Krampnitz must be ‘The Nazi Eagle’, a mosaic on the ceiling of one of the grandest buildings in the complex.

Having researched Kaserne Krampnitz before we set out this was one thing we were determined to see. After several hours it remained undiscovered but having explored most of the buildings we were pretty sure we knew where it was.

And when we finally saw it, it certainly wasn’t a disappointment.

There has been a lot of speculation about whether it is ‘genuine’ because the Soviets wouldn’t have left it intact and many other decorations and symbols have been destroyed.

I don’t know the answer. All I know is that it is easy to appreciate the attention to detail and craftsmanship and whilst it is the symbol of an evil regime, it’s impressive.

It’s probably a good thing that we didn’t find this earlier in our search because some of the other buildings might have been an anti-climax.

There were other times when I wondered if some of the things we saw were props rather than original items. If it is authentic, this uniform was definitely posed for photographs.

And I’m not sure if some of the graffiti has been added since the military left, even if the writing is Russian.

If you are thinking of exploring Kaserne Krampnitz I would definitely recommend going with a friend. There are indications that people have lived there or partied there recently, including signs of drug use and abandoned buildings are a little creepy even if they’re not inhabited. I almost jumped out of my skin when a bird flew out of its nest a few feet from me as I entered one of the buildings.

As with all buildings that have been left to rot, as well as an abundance of peeling paint and the pervading smell of damp, there are also floors and ceilings that are unsafe and the roofs of some of the buildings have collapsed in places so be careful.

Stadtbad Prenzlauer Berg

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I have been fascinated by the Stadbad Prenzlauer Berg on Oderberger Strasse since my first trip to Berlin in 2009 when I tried to wander into the building whilst it was being set up for a Swap Market event sponsored by Skyy Vodka.

At that time I didn’t realise that the building was generally not open to the public and that I wasn’t meant to be there. I was a little shocked when someone came at me, slackjawed at my (unintentional) boldness, and presumably asked me what I thought I was doing. ‘Es tut mir leid’ I said as I turned around and walked out. But I couldn’t resist another quick look over my shoulder to see what I was missing out on.

Built to plans drawn up by the architect Ludwig Hoffman, the public baths on Oderberger Strasse opened in 1902 . But in 1986 the baths were closed due to cracks in the pool floor.

Since then the building has been used occasionally for exhibitions or events but has mainly lain empty.

At the end of 2011, the Stadtbad was bought by the GLS Language School, based around the corner on Kastanianallee, whose plans for the building include hotel and classrooms. The renovations are not expected to be completed until 2015 and at this time the swimming pool will once again be open to the public.

Yesterday, I finally got my chance to have a look around the building, which was open as part of World Water Day.

As well as allowing the public to wander freely around the building, there was an exhibition of photographs by Johanna Keimeyer and performances of a video installation by the artist in the evening but more of that in another post.

The building is a real mixture of the decorative and the functional. The vaulted ceilings in the main hall above the swimming pool and the staircases were gorgeous but in obvious need of some TLC. I hope though that during the renovations they maintain the character that these features still display.

I was also drawn to the clock above the swimming pool in the main hall. I think it was its simplicity that attracted me.

In corridors surrounding the main hall on both the ground floor and first floor were the changing rooms, showers and bathrooms, which need more than just a good scrub. But again, it would be a shame to destroy the character in the details here, such as the dials to indicate Frei (Free) or Besetzt (Occupied).

I hope that the Stadtbad Prenzlauerberg will be restored to its former glory by 2015 and the space will be well used and appreciated but I’m glad that I got the chance to see it as it looks now – tired and uncared for but still beautiful in its own way.

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Tag Archives: Urbex

Bahnbetriebswerk Pankow-Heinersdorf – An Abandoned Train Yard

Teufelsberg – A Return To The Devil’s Mountain

The Abandoned Iraqi Embassy in Berlin (Die Verlassene Irakische Botschaft)

Rewatex – Abandoned Laundry and Dyeing Factory – Berlin

Photos From My Phone – January

Art On A Crumbling Canvas: Papierfabrik Wolfswinkel

Papierfabrik Wolfswinkel: Exploring An Abandoned Paper Mill

Sanatorium E – Abandoned Tuberculosis Hospital

Kaserne Krampnitz

Stadtbad Prenzlauer Berg

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